LG CX Discussion (No Price Talk)

Sorry for posting it here, as my tv is b9 65, but I'm having the same stabilizer that is voltino model.. In my case also the stabilizer (as well as tv since it is connected to it) gets turned off as soon as whenever there is electricity power cut and turns back on from inverter ( But I think this is normal maybe because of the square wave nature of the circuit and not the sine wave??) ... But in my case the thing here gets weird.. Whenever there is electricity cut and inverter starts, stabilizer starts but shows the HI indication due to which the tv also remains off... This remains for about 5min or so.. Then the stabilizer starts showing the input and output voltage and TV Powers ... and if tv is plugged directly into the wall socket it works like a charm ( I mean it gets turned off while there is power cut but immediately it starts again on inverter)...
Anyone have any ideas regarding this??
Again sorry if my post is in wrong thread/section.
Thanks..
The stabilizer trips due to insufficient inverter capacity, it appears. 2 KVA inverter can handle 3.6 amps stabilizer. So yours is 4 amps stabilizer which is above the load capacity or your inverter capacity is less. Switch the EB off and and just see what happens to the stabilizer without hooking on the TV or sound bars etc... at output socket of stabilizer. It may still trip. Which means stabilizer pulls more than inverter line's output power supply but the irony is TV will work if supplied without the stabilizer like you already mentioned (like a charm). Do this and tell us the inference.
 
The stabilizer trips due to insufficient inverter capacity, it appears. 2 KVA inverter can handle 3.6 amps stabilizer. So yours is 4 amps stabilizer which is above the load capacity or your inverter capacity is less. Switch the EB off and and just see what happens to the stabilizer without hooking on the TV or sound bars etc... at output socket of stabilizer. It may still trip. Which means stabilizer pulls more than inverter line's output power supply but the irony is TV will work if supplied without the stabilizer like you already mentioned (like a charm). Do this and tell us the inference.
Thanks for the reply...btw stabilizer is only connected to the TV and airtel stb...But I'll try it and report back.. Also, can you please tell what is EB? ^_^;... Sorry for the noob question.
 
The stabilizer trips due to insufficient inverter capacity, it appears. 2 KVA inverter can handle 3.6 amps stabilizer. So yours is 4 amps stabilizer which is above the load capacity or your inverter capacity is less. Switch the EB off and and just see what happens to the stabilizer without hooking on the TV or sound bars etc... at output socket of stabilizer. It may still trip. Which means stabilizer pulls more than inverter line's output power supply but the irony is TV will work if supplied without the stabilizer like you already mentioned (like a charm). Do this and tell us the inference.
Okay Got it.. EB stands for Electric Board (main circuit). So I did the tests .

Scenario 1:- Nothing connected to the stabilizer. I turned off the EB and stabilizer didn't show Hi. Switched back ON and still nothing changed. Tried this two times and got the same result.

Scenario 2 :- Connected the TV to the stabilizer. TV was not on . It was in standby mode . Turned OFF the EB .. No Hi indication and tv still was in standby mode. Turned back ON the EB and still no change. Tried this two times and same result.

Scenario 3 :- TV connected to the stabilizer and TV was turned ON ( watching Youtube ). Turned off the EB . TV turned Off and Hi indicator came immediately in stabilizer. Turned back the EB ON and Hi indicator disappeared immediately and TV also turned back ON after 3 sec normal delay.

Any guess regarding this?
Thanks.
 
Okay Got it.. EB stands for Electric Board (main circuit). So I did the tests .

Scenario 1:- Nothing connected to the stabilizer. I turned off the EB and stabilizer didn't show Hi. Switched back ON and still nothing changed. Tried this two times and got the same result.

Scenario 2 :- Connected the TV to the stabilizer. TV was not on . It was in standby mode . Turned OFF the EB .. No Hi indication and tv still was in standby mode. Turned back ON the EB and still no change. Tried this two times and same result.

Scenario 3 :- TV connected to the stabilizer and TV was turned ON ( watching Youtube ). Turned off the EB . TV turned Off and Hi indicator came immediately in stabilizer. Turned back the EB ON and Hi indicator disappeared immediately and TV also turned back ON after 3 sec normal delay.

Any guess regarding this?
Thanks.
Inverter capacity is less and is not handling the combined load of your TV plus stabilizer in the circuit. What is your inverter capacity? TV on standby consumes only about 0.5 watts. But when on, a 55" consumes about 200 watts and 65" about 260 watts. That's close to one more ampere of current requirement over and above your stabilizer load. Either you need an inverter of say 4 KVA with a hell lot of batteries or forget this circuit. Just connect to the EB. In layman terms, 1) TV is not like a personal computer that needs time to properly shut down - so no need for a UPS or inverter 2) Just stabilizer is enough to protect it from high voltage which is the crux of the situation. 3) if you have an inverter or UPS ahead of a stabilizer in the circuit, you need to ensure the UPS or inverter can pull the load of the stabilizer plus TV and what not.
 
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Inverter capacity is less and is not handling the combined load of your TV plus stabilizer in the circuit. What is your inverter capacity? TV on standby consumes only about 0.5 watts. But when on, a 55" consumes about 200 watts and 65" about 260 watts. That's close to one more ampere of current requirement over and above your stabilizer load. Either you need an inverter of say 4 KVA with a hell lot of batteries or forget this circuit. Just connect to the EB. In layman terms, 1) TV is not like a personal computer that needs time to properly shut down - so no need for a UPS or inverter 2) Just stabilizer is enough to protect it from high voltage which is the crux of the situation. 3) if you have an inverter or UPS ahead of a stabilizer in the circuit, you need to ensure the UPS or inverter can pull the load of the stabilizer plus TV and what not.
My microtek inverter is 800w. And I forgot to say that my stabilizer is for upto 80 inch TV model that is 4A one.
 
My microtek inverter is 800w. And I forgot to say that my stabilizer is for upto 80 inch TV model that is 4A one.
So now you got it. 800 Va can't pull that load. Use a straight EB line to stabilizer + TV. The stabilizer can pull your TV's load no problem. Your TV's ampere load would be around 260/220(watts/volts)=~1 amp. Plus the four amps of your stabilizer is around 5 amps. I was told a 2kva inverter can pull 3.6 amps. So you might want to reconsider plugging the stabilizer in the inverter line as a power cut will cause some issue to your inverter and stabilizer. (Luckily it won't take a toll on your 65" OLED TV as TV's can handle power cuts or sudden switching offs. Not high voltage though.
 
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So now you got it. 800 Va can't pull that load. Use a straight EB line to stabilizer + TV. The stabilizer can pull your TV's load no problem. Your TV's ampere load would be around 260/220(watts/volts)=~1 amp. Plus the four amps of your stabilizer is around 5 amps. I was told a 2kva inverter can pull 3.6 amps. So you might want to reconsider plugging the stabilizer in the inverter line as a power cut will cause some issue to your inverter and stabilizer. (Luckily it won't take a toll on your 65" OLED TV as TV's can handle power cuts. Not high voltage though.
okay but it shows HI for about 4-5 min (on inverter line) but after that it starts working fine. One thing more I would like to point out that after it shows HI, if I switch ON few tubelights and bulbs, the HI goes and Stabilizer starts working fine immediately after that ; But if I don't turn on tube lights and bulbs HI remains for about 4 to 5 minutes and then after that it starts working normally :/
 
okay but it shows HI for about 4-5 min (on inverter line) but after that it starts working fine. One thing more I would like to point out that after it shows HI, if I switch ON few tubelights and bulbs, the HI goes and Stabilizer starts working fine immediately after that ; But if I don't turn on tube lights and bulbs HI remains for about 4 to 5 minutes and then after that it starts working normally :/
Get an extension power chord, fix the stabilizer plus TV in a non Inverter (only EB) line nearby and see if this hi does not come. If it does not then you need to power it from straight EB socket.
 
^^I am not an expert in electrical field but I am somehow familiar with this case of yours. Let's try to understand

Amperes is the amount of electricity used by the device and voltage is the force of electricity that passes into the device. Amps = watts devided by volts in general. So when the amps load was higher the inverter supplied higher voltage to compensate the mathematical equation. The extra lights and fans are something that supplies resistance for the circuit to nullify the high voltage. Now high voltage burden is directly encountered by the stabilizer and so it's rheostat inside is at work and signalling HI. Anyways, these things are hard to imagine or comprehend but we can aim to do our trials and errors to see what works best for us.
 
Hello guys,
I am in the market for a 55 inch TV. Was eyeing the LG CX and finally today Vijay Sales has offered the TV at a great price. However, I am conscious about the screen burn in issue that has affected my brother's B8. My other options are the OLED's from Samsung Q80T and Q95T.
My living is pretty bright as it has windows on both ends with the TV being somewhere in the center of the 2 windows.
I took a demo of Q80T and it left me positively impressed.

What would your recommendations be? I want to stick to 1.1 to 1.2L budget.

TIA.
 
Hello guys,
I am in the market for a 55 inch TV. Was eyeing the LG CX and finally today Vijay Sales has offered the TV at a great price. However, I am conscious about the screen burn in issue that has affected my brother's B8. My other options are the OLED's from Samsung Q80T and Q95T.
My living is pretty bright as it has windows on both ends with the TV being somewhere in the center of the 2 windows.
I took a demo of Q80T and it left me positively impressed.

What would your recommendations be? I want to stick to 1.1 to 1.2L budget.

TIA.
maybe out of topic to the thread to discuss, If your room is bright enough then get QLED as of now. Burn in is still an issue, if you watch contents from dth or more SDR channels with logo....
TV brightness is more an issue than Burn-in, cosider you want a TV in bright room.

If you still want to get OLED (Inky Black :D)
You can wait for there LG G1 series or also Sony Master A90J series with brighter panels for this year with some liquid cooling to prevent burn in and may cross 1000 nits also but offcourse they are expensive.
 
Quick question for LG CX owners. Does the cx supports option for controlling volume on coaxial or optical output.

I understand this is not ideal but I'd really like this convenience.
 
maybe out of topic to the thread to discuss, If your room is bright enough then get QLED as of now. Burn in is still an issue, if you watch contents from dth or more SDR channels with logo....
TV brightness is more an issue than Burn-in, cosider you want a TV in bright room.

If you still want to get OLED (Inky Black :D)
You can wait for there LG G1 series or also Sony Master A90J series with brighter panels for this year with some liquid cooling to prevent burn in and may cross 1000 nits also but offcourse they are expensive.
Thank you for the feedback. I need the TV rather soon as we plan to move in to the house next week :)
2021 models will not be in stock anytime soon, moreover the current Sony equivalent of the LG CX is atleast 45K more, so I can only assume the 2021 models will be priced significantly higher.

Thanks for the help, I will be demo'ing the Q95T today, will make a call then.
 
Hey Guys,

I dont see the Dolby vision logo when playing anything on Hotstar. Users have seen DV logo while playing The Mandalorian , Togo etc. Any idea about this?
Btw is Wanda Vision DV too??
 
Yes, all of them are available in DV. If you are using built in app, it is not supported yet. I think it is supported on Android TV OS and Fire Stick 4k but not on LG WebOS app
 
Yes, all of them are available in DV. If you are using built in app, it is not supported yet. I think it is supported on Android TV OS and Fire Stick 4k but not on LG WebOS app
Really that is such a shame. I was going to upgrade from VIP to watch DV content only. lg WebOS lacking behind as usual
 
Well finally bit the bullet and after some bargaining (which obviously I am not very good at) got the 65cx at 1.86 after all cashbacks and 3 years comprehensive warranty in Gurgaon.

Which mounting to do wall or opt for the table top stand ? Pointers please.

What are the first things I need to check on delivery ?

Btw any pointers what I can do with my old plasma
 
Well finally bit the bullet and after some bargaining (which obviously I am not very good at) got the 65cx at 1.86 after all cashbacks and 3 years comprehensive warranty in Gurgaon.

Which mounting to do wall or opt for the table top stand ? Pointers please.

What are the first things I need to check on delivery ?

Btw any pointers what I can do with my old plasma
Plasma TV will have some loyalists wanting to bag it. Post it on OLX or quickr. Or some FM compatriot from the same location might want it.
 
Well finally got my tv installed on a table top stand. The lg guy was telling that today was the last day for punching the extended warranty for 4th and 5th year.

My question is whether I should go for the extended warranty plan ?
 
For excellent sound that won't break the bank, the 5 Star Award Winning Wharfedale Diamond 12.1 Bookshelf Speakers is the one to consider!
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