Panasonic VT20 Owners Thread

[mad]

Haha.. Maybe we should.

Not too convinced about electronic stabilisers, especially for a power load such a large plasma. Let's see. Will discuss when we meet later today.

Hi mad,

Get the product per the link Instead of the bulky stabilizer. Infact ask for a group buy deal

Power Solutions :: Home Solutions :: Power Doc :: Power-Doc 6AMP :: Su-kam :: Ek nayi soch

 

[giddavr]

Guys any news abt power consumption ... I have a sukam 800 va inverter ...
That used to power up my SONY 29" CRT ... But not able to power up my VT20
the inverter is ~2 yrs ... I am doubting the battery potency also ... What can be the issue ?? Else I have to shell out for a higher potency inverter n battery

Lastly do we need a stabilizer for our panel ?

i currently have my panny 50vt20d connected to a dlink digipower600va ups and it is performing flawlessly. i am sure the 495watts rating given by the company is the maximum rating. i have read many reviews and the average consumption in home setting was around 300-350watts. only. right now it is in breakin period with all values set low and i think thats why the 600 va is proving to be sufficent.

i am planning on using the APC BR100-IN UPS which is rated for 600watts. and i already have 2 of them powering my computer and my ultrasound scanner.
i also have 2 more APC 600va ups units poering my projector and Oppo and WD TV Live etc. in my HT. I have found the APC units to be the Best after using many others in the last 20years.

 

[amol12]

@mad
By using inverter u r putting ur plasma at stake.....inverter doesn't provides pure sine wave (though it says that)....It is a backup device
stabilizer is used to feed ur equipment with proper voltage (I.e 230V)....it is used where there is frequent fluctuations..... It is not a backup device.

In case u want protection + backup than go for UPS ....preferable online (even lineinteractive can serve the purpose @ low cost than online)....

I am currently using my 50vt20 on a 800VA inverter without any issues. Its startup current is way below my sony 29"CRT TV as the inverter beep while starting up has reduced to more than 1/3rd and it absent at many times.

Also TVs have SMPS so sine wave/ non-sine wave does not matter as such.

 

[amol12]

Hi, I called panasonic for the dead pixel. Today the person who came for installation has taken pics of it. The service person said it may be replaced or the panel may be replaced.
The TV /panel is manufactured in Dec 2010.
Good news is in the service menu >aging found the scroll tool (like in 50ST30). Will post details in a while.

 

[Amit21]

Hi Amol,

It will definitely work....but the point which i wanted to bring to notice is that...when we are feeding the equipment with proper sine wave than...SMPS will also perform its job better...ie ac to dc....
In case if our AC is not proper than problem in long time are bound to happen.
To be precise, every electronic equipment have bank of MOV inside it to take care of surge, spikes & other impurities in power.....if impurity is more than life of MOV will be less and than one fine day u can notice some damages to the equipment.....

Also pls note - All the above problem mentioned will be there when we are using inverter to run the TV in case of power failure.....Since when power is available, inverter will not feed any power...the i/p of inverter will be same at the output side too.

 

[devh5]

Good i read this post.....was thinking of buying the onkyo 3400s HT but will now need to to get an AVR which upscales.............will improve my SD picture as well to a certain extent ...

Dont invest more than what onkyo 3400 provides for upscaling. upscaling done by An avr atleast 20k more than onkyo 3400, you ll not be able to make out the difference cos the upscaling is minimal. So the extra cost for a costly avr is not worth it just to provide for minimal upscaling IMHO.:indifferent14:

 

[giddavr]

People continue to get confused over the purposes of the slide break-in; it is less so for preventing burn-in, but more so for evenly aging the phosphors as quickly as possible so that a calibration can be completed (so that the phosphors won't change after investing in a professional calibration). Burn-in with plasma is a long-gone issue. You would have to seriously abuse your new PDP before getting any permanent burn-in (i.e. leave bright static images on for days (maybe weeks) at a time)!

Checkout the results of this torture test: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pi...0- FINAL.pdf
They left a bright, static image on screen for 48 hrs straight! Burn-in? No. Image retention? Yes, but remedied later.

 

[BLASTO]

People continue to get confused over the purposes of the slide break-in; it is less so for preventing burn-in, but more so for evenly aging the phosphors as quickly as possible so that a calibration can be completed (so that the phosphors won't change after investing in a professional calibration). Burn-in with plasma is a long-gone issue. You would have to seriously abuse your new PDP before getting any permanent burn-in (i.e. leave bright static images on for days (maybe weeks) at a time)!

Checkout the results of this torture test: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pi...0- FINAL.pdf
They left a bright, static image on screen for 48 hrs straight! Burn-in? No. Image retention? Yes, but remedied later.

My only question is why are the slides used when the 'TV' mode black and white dots screen does the same thing? Infact it ages the phospor faster because it keeps the phospors excersising more frequently than slides and the colours are the exteremes in the spectrum. (Black and white).

Iam not able to find a convincing answer still..

 

[BLASTO]

My TV is not connected up. But my friends tell me that I should get a stab. If the AC runs of a stab. So should a Plasma.

I got the v-guard stabilizer which is specifically made for LCD and Plasma TVs. It comes with 15amp socket. It costs around ~2000. It has been working fins fine with my earlier and current plasmas.

 

[sunshine_vsk]

I got the v-guard stabilizer which is specifically made for LCD and Plasma TVs. It comes with 15amp socket. It costs around ~2000. It has been working fins fine with my earlier and current plasmas.

BLASTO,

Please check if the max. Watt is mentioned anywhere in your V-Guard stabilizer?. When i bought V-Guard stabilizer for a 32' LCD few weeks back the dealer showed me 2 models, one which can be used upto 32' LCD (1,200Rs.) and the other one can be used for plasma's UPTO 42' (2,050Rs). when i asked if it can handle 50' plasma which will have 400 to 450 watt he said he was not sure and he can't guarantee for that...

Currently im using a 2KVA STANDARD stabilizer to which i have connected my 50ST30 & my HT system which uses 1KV.

 

[giddavr]

this may be of interest to u all

As far as "surge" goes, do the same search in the Kuro forums (but use surge of course) and you'll find a lot of posts on that. Also be sure and read the posts above/or below mine in each result area. In short, it's best to get a UPS.

Only a UPS will protect against those spontaneous instantaneous rapid OFF/ON/OFF/ON events, (several cycles over a few seconds) those are very common in this area and can ruin a PSU is just about anything. I've had numerous appliances destroyed because of those. Put all your expensive goods on a UPS and they will prevent that. Sure, a warranty (if it's in warranty) will cover that, but why bother with all the BS of a warranty claim if it can be avoided.

You don't need a UPS to actually run the TV for a period of time, just long enough for you to shut it off, or unplug it, until the electricity starts behaving itself again. If you do want one to actually run the TV for minutes, it may be best to get a more expensive one that uses a pure sine-wave waveform.

 

[naimesh]

I am not getting friends..can someone explain in detail regarding UPS, inverter, stabilizer etc. . . .which one is good for my TV(50V20)?
how many watts?

 

[mad]

Folks, My TV is up an running. Games running of PS3 is eye poppingly good (Tried the included composite and then switched to HDMI.). Awesome.

The SD channels on Tata Sky HD are (understandably) not so great looking. (suggestions are more than welcome to fix this.)

 

[BLASTO]

Folks, My TV is up an running. Games running of PS3 is eye poppingly good (Tried the included composite and then switched to HDMI.). Awesome.

The SD channels on Tata Sky HD are (understandably) not so great looking. (suggestions are more than welcome to fix this.)

Check if the output through HDMI is 1080p. Lot of people miss this simple check..

 

[BLASTO]

The SD channels on Tata Sky HD are (understandably) not so great looking. (suggestions are more than welcome to fix this.)

Did you try out my settings posted earlier to remove green/yellow cast?

 

[devh5]

this may be of interest to u all

As far as "surge" goes, do the same search in the Kuro forums (but use surge of course) and you'll find a lot of posts on that. Also be sure and read the posts above/or below mine in each result area. In short, it's best to get a UPS.

Only a UPS will protect against those spontaneous instantaneous rapid OFF/ON/OFF/ON events, (several cycles over a few seconds) those are very common in this area and can ruin a PSU is just about anything. I've had numerous appliances destroyed because of those. Put all your expensive goods on a UPS and they will prevent that. Sure, a warranty (if it's in warranty) will cover that, but why bother with all the BS of a warranty claim if it can be avoided.

You don't need a UPS to actually run the TV for a period of time, just long enough for you to shut it off, or unplug it, until the electricity starts behaving itself again. If you do want one to actually run the TV for minutes, it may be best to get a more expensive one that uses a pure sine-wave waveform.

Lot of power cuts in my area. there is a power cut nearly 8 times in a day minimum(load shedding govt says). Add to that generator is also put on as soon as power goes and its turned off when power comes back. every time my whole system gets switched on and off nearly 16 times everytime power goes and comes back.. it is kind of irritating. I have a set up of vt20, bd player, hd dth and onkyo 3400 all running on v guard crystal plus 3 amp( its written on the side-lcd/plasma+dvd/dth+home theatre system 3 amp max). which UPS would be suitable for this set up. one more stu pid question.Do i need a stabilzer too along with an UPS???

 

[BLASTO]

BLASTO,

Please check if the max. Watt is mentioned anywhere in your V-Guard stabilizer?. When i bought V-Guard stabilizer for a 32' LCD few weeks back the dealer showed me 2 models, one which can be used upto 32' LCD (1,200Rs.) and the other one can be used for plasma's UPTO 42' (2,050Rs). when i asked if it can handle 50' plasma which will have 400 to 450 watt he said he was not sure and he can't guarantee for that...

Iam using the below stabilizer (The cuboid shaped one)
Stabilizer - Volt Stabilizer | Voltage Stabilizers :: V-Guard

I have connected DVD player, WDTV, Amplifier (and tower speakers), Airtel Set top box and CD player along with the samsung 42" plasma TV till a week ago for almost 2 years. It handles all load effortlessly without a sweat all this time. (Connected TV to first output and all others through extention box connected to second output of the stabilizer).

Since I already had it at hand, I connected my 50VT20 in place of the samsung and it has been doing its duty without breaking sweat for the past week.

I have also connected the stabilizer to mains via belkin surge protector which provides first level of protection. (cost 600).

So total cost is 2000+600 for the setup.

 

[BLASTO]

when i asked if it can handle 50' plasma which will have 400 to 450 watt he said he was not sure and he can't guarantee for that....

230w is the average and 300w max.
Should go down with eco mode on.

 

[baijuxavior]

Lot of power cuts in my area. there is a power cut nearly 8 times in a day minimum(load shedding govt says). Add to that generator is also put on as soon as power goes and its turned off when power comes back. every time my whole system gets switched on and off nearly 16 times everytime power goes and comes back.. it is kind of irritating. I have a set up of vt20, bd player, hd dth and onkyo 3400 all running on v guard crystal plus 3 amp( its written on the side-lcd/plasma+dvd/dth+home theatre system 3 amp max). which UPS would be suitable for this set up. one more stu pid question.Do i need a stabilzer too along with an UPS???

With such frequent power cuts, you will need an Online Sinewave UPS. These are quite expensive. Look for a 2KVA model from APC etc. You can also consider local brands to get some price reduction.

 

[sg3707]

Not a owner yet but today when I went for a demo
I was not satisfied frankly. The colors on vt20 looked washed out.spent good 1hr In the croma showroom trying to get a good picture but was not satisfied. It was placed beside Samsung led6000 and its brightness and picture quality were much better.changed lot of settings which went under picture option in menu but it was not comparable to the Sammy. (watched HD, SD and 3D)

Also checked the 3D part.it was not eye pooping either.say what you want but there was a LG model don't render which one exactly buy even with its passive glasses its 3D effect was good and the picture was much brighter.

Do you guys think the display price TV is messed up or my observations are true. Btw I own a 40C630 and have temptation for 3D.
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