Sir Garrard 401 has Arrived!!

[reubensm]

Its looking great, I like the huge even cutout as it improves ventilation for the 401 motor (which tends to run warm). How are you going to mount the chassis? Just drill holes and drop it in, or are you going to bolt it? What about the tonearm? Going to do a tonearm board or are you going to mount the tonearm directly to the plinth?

 

[Record Player]

Its looking great, I like the huge even cutout as it improves ventilation for the 401 motor (which tends to run warm). How are you going to mount the chassis? Just drill holes and drop it in, or are you going to bolt it? What about the tonearm? Going to do a tonearm board or are you going to mount the tonearm directly to the plinth?

Thanks Reuben. The end result will be quite satisfying and that's why dint hurry into this. The chassis will be bolted onto the plinth. A bit of a complex drilling work here on the plinth. First we will drill a 6mm hole through the entire plinth. Then from the rear side widen the hole to the size of 8mm but not completely through as we can then bolt the nuts onto the chassis. It is recommended to have the chassis bolted onto the plinth.

For now I intend to mount the tonearm directly onto the plinth unless the specific tonearm requires a board for its appropriate height.

 

[jls001]

Thanks Reuben. The end result will be quite satisfying and that's why dint hurry into this. The chassis will be bolted onto the plinth. A bit of a complex drilling work here on the plinth. First we will drill a 6mm hole through the entire plinth. Then from the rear side widen the hole to the size of 8mm but not completely through as we can then bolt the nuts onto the chassis. It is recommended to have the chassis bolted onto the plinth.

For now I intend to mount the tonearm directly onto the plinth unless the specific tonearm requires a board for its appropriate height.

That's very clever.

If we drill the bolt holes on individual layers while cutting the cutouts, it is really tough to have all the holes aligned correctly. May be things will be different if done on a CNC. If the holes re drilled in one shot after gluing the layers, there will be no misalignment.

But the question is where to get 6 or 8 mm drill bits that are long enough to drill through all the 6 to 8 layers. I couldn't source it so I ended up drilling individual holes but I am quite unhappy with the outcome.

BTW, the plinth is shaping up quite well. And nice choice of veneer. Is that mahogany?

I am bit worried about the lack of arm hole. Cutting through those many layers to carve out an arm hole - should you want one in future - is going to be tough. A good way to overcome this is to use a large circular or rectangular arm board that can accommodate both 9 and 12 inch arms.

 

[Record Player]

That's very clever.

If we drill the bolt holes on individual layers while cutting the cutouts, it is really tough to have all the holes aligned correctly. May be things will be different if done on a CNC. If the holes re drilled in one shot after gluing the layers, there will be no misalignment.

But the question is where to get 6 or 8 mm drill bits that are long enough to drill through all the 6 to 8 layers. I couldn't source it so I ended up drilling individual holes but I am quite unhappy with the outcome.

Yes indeed, though this is the best way to do it. CNC can easily achieve this accurately at every single layer. My carpenter said he can do it and does have the required equipment. But this will be proved in the next couple of days when its actually done.

BTW, the plinth is shaping up quite well. And nice choice of veneer. Is that mahogany?

Thanks Joshua. I am very particular on the aesthetics . If I am not wrong it is mahogany. It will be darker when polished but those lines will be a bit prominent and giving it a natural wood finish.

I am bit worried about the lack of arm hole. Cutting through those many layers to carve out an arm hole - should you want one in future - is going to be tough. A good way to overcome this is to use a large circular or rectangular arm board that can accommodate both 9 and 12 inch arms.

That template you shared with me is perfect for the above option. Best to get it done before the final polish job I guess.

 

[kuruvilajacob]

The practical way out is to cut a large arm hole in the template and have a 15 or 18 mm layer on the top layer and drill out the where you wish to have your arm. If you have doubt you can see the picture on my new project for Lenco L 75 posting. I tried this method and found it very convenient to fix the arm.

 

[Record Player]

I just got an update that the 401 plinth is ready. My person mentions that the polishing has come out extremely well and the drilling has also been done very accurately.

Will be picking this up tomorrow. Will keep you posted. Now the excitement is getting me to

 

[reubensm]

I just got an update that the 401 plinth is ready. My person mentions that the polishing has come out extremely well and the drilling has also been done very accurately.

Will be picking this up tomorrow. Will keep you posted. Now the excitement is getting me to

Wow, that's great. Can't wait to see the results.

 

[Record Player]

Collected the plinth this morning. Could not take any photographs as it was packed and straight away put into the car boot.

Had a sneak peak and it looked quite well done. Happy with the overall finish. The polish is a light shade of Mahogany. The nuts designed for the chassis is quite unique. Don't know how to describe it but will put up photographs tomorrow. The spikes are also quite alright.

Cheers...

 

[Record Player]

Finally.it has arrived. Precision Cut, Veneered and Hand Polished. Ladies and Gentlemen I present to you Sir Garrards Royal Throne.

 

[shafic]

Well done RP!!:clapping: The plinth is looking neat n clean. Wonderful finishing.

 

[reubensm]

Great job, its looking so neat. How do you plan to mount the tonearm? Did you get the spiked feet fabricated?

 

[Record Player]

Great job, its looking so neat. How do you plan to mount the tonearm? Did you get the spiked feet fabricated?

Thanks Reuben. Yes the spikes were custom designed by Mr. Murthy. If you like them I can place the order with Mr. Murthy on behalf of you.

The tonearm I've most probably shortlisted will just need 4 screws to mount on the plinth. No drilling of holes required.

 

[sachu888]

Excellent:clapping:

Regards,
Sachin

 

[jls001]

Great choice of veneer (I am partial to mahogany). And nice spikes! It is amazing what spikes can do to focus the sound of a turntable, and tighten its bass.

 

[Record Player]

The motor sits in very accurately onto the plinth. No a single motor component touches the plinth. The long bolts built perfectly got bolted onto the chassis.

Before mounting I loosened the transit screws and when powered up the 401 I was amazed to see how quite the motor actually is.

Order placed for the dust cover and SS name plates are also in the making.

Finally.it has arrived. Precision Cut, Veneered and Hand Polished. Ladies and Gentlemen I present to you Sir Garrards Royal Throne.

 

[prem]

Hi RP

Nice looking table. Instead of the SS spike going into a SS cup try a copper /brass cup. SS into SS creates a high frequency feedback. If you want to use SS into SS, use a db Neutraliser pad from Herbies Audio

 

[Record Player]

Hi RP

Nice looking table. Instead of the SS spike going into a SS cup try a copper /brass cup. SS into SS creates a high frequency feedback. If you want to use SS into SS, use a db Neutraliser pad from Herbies Audio

Thanks for the tip Prem. Will give this a shot once I get the tonearm in place.

Cheers...

 

[G401fan]

Neat job!
Can't tell from the photos, but is there a piece of hard rubber between the spike top and the plinth? There ought to be something absorbent, else the wood steel combination, with a steel cup, would likely harden the sound. It doesn't help that the entire set-up is on a glass shelf, which is itself a problem when in contact with the steel cup. You might have to do some experimenting once your arm and cartridge are in place.

 

[reubensm]

Thanks Reuben. Yes the spikes were custom designed by Mr. Murthy. If you like them I can place the order with Mr. Murthy on behalf of you.

The tonearm I've most probably shortlisted will just need 4 screws to mount on the plinth. No drilling of holes required.

thanks RP, I've been actually working on some extreme plinth designs involving a concrete base. Shall let you know once I study them in detail.

 

[Record Player]

Neat job!
Can't tell from the photos, but is there a piece of hard rubber between the spike top and the plinth? There ought to be something absorbent, else the wood steel combination, with a steel cup, would likely harden the sound. It doesn't help that the entire set-up is on a glass shelf, which is itself a problem when in contact with the steel cup. You might have to do some experimenting once your arm and cartridge are in place.

Thanks G401fan. Very valid points. The very first thing I need to do is replace the glass shelves with MDF. I do have the option of filling sand into the 4 legs of the rack as well. I've not added the hard rubber for now. I will have this done shortly.

I'd like to get a Record Stabilizing Clamp for this as well. What do you suggest?

Cheers...