Panasonic VT20 Owners Thread

how good is the 3D on VT20...its like the number one thing for me...

very good with sbs torrent files played through wdtv media player.

must be excellant with original 3d blurays or source material

will be getting my panny bdp 310 on dec9th. with the free avatar 3d bluray and 3d blurays of the lion king and the pirates 4 movie. there is still a months time so if i find any good 3d blurays will order them too.
 
@Reds4Ever/Satan,

Got a conclusion on the -15 brightness issue today.
Nothing has changed in the TV wrt MLL.

I replayed the 'real juice' video from Nat-Geo today with normal room lighting and found blacks lacking at '0' brightness. Paused the scene and reduced the brightness and blacks become pitch black around -15. +12 brightness is very light grey.

Replayed with -15 brightness and the whole scene was just great. Colours also improve a lot. Other scenes had crushed shadow detail however. I have been using -15 today and blacks are really good. If we change to other picture modes, the details are good though.

So, -15 for best blacks and -5 to 0 for best shadow details. Anything between them is a compromise between the two.

So, with real content on the screen, the blacks go deeper than a full black screen. The 'real juice' is a good scene to adjust brightness.

My current settings (post breakin) for HD in moderate room lighting below. Needless to say it maximises on blacks sacrificing shadow details. Watch for an hour or so and let me know what you think. (Note: Not for SD).

Most panasonic owners don't like my settings as I find 'on your face' setting of samsung satisfactory, so take it with a pinch of salt. Dont come to a conclusion without watching for an hour or so as moving away from breakin settings, you will find this setting unusual.

Mode Professional 1
Contrast : 70 (up from 66)
Colour : 50
Brightness : -15 (or -12 according to your liking)
Tint : -1
R gain : 0
G gain : -11
B gain : +4
R cut : 1
G cut : -6
B cut : +5

Gamma : S-Curve (2.2 if you like it)
 
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@Reds4Ever/Satan,

Got a conclusion on the -15 brightness issue today.
Nothing has changed in the TV wrt MLL.

I replayed the 'real juice' video from Nat-Geo today with normal room lighting and found blacks lacking at '0' brightness. Paused the scene and reduced the brightness and blacks become pitch black around -15. +12 brightness is very light grey.

Replayed with -15 brightness and the whole scene was just great. Colours also improve a lot. Other scenes had crushed shadow detail however. I have been using -15 today and blacks are really good. If we change to other picture modes, the details are good though.

So, -15 for best blacks and -5 to 0 for best shadow details. Anything between them is a compromise between the two.

So, with real content on the screen, the blacks go deeper than a full black screen. The 'real juice' is a good scene to adjust brightness.

My current settings (post breakin) for HD in moderate room lighting below. Needless to say it maximises on blacks sacrificing shadow details. Watch for an hour or so and let me know what you think. (Note: Not for SD).

Most panasonic owners don't like my settings as I find 'on your face' setting of samsung satisfactory, so take it with a pinch of salt. Dont come to a conclusion without watching for an hour or so as moving away from breakin settings, you will find this setting unusual.

Mode Professional 1
Contrast : 70 (up from 66)
Colour : 50
Brightness : -15 (or -12 according to your liking)
Tint : -1
R gain : 0
G gain : -11
B gain : +4
R cut : 1
G cut : -6
B cut : +5

Blasto, Thanks. I've also noticed that the brightness setting has an impact with real content on screen. However, I couldn't understand why that should not show on a fully black jpeg image. I don't know if this makes sense but is it possible that the TV has some built in processing to always retain some charge on the phosphors to ensure faster phosphor response (and sacrificing black as a side-effect)? With real content, they could switch off some of the phosphors completely. I read that the VT20 had a different phosphor driving methodology. If it sounds like I've been smoking something, that's not true. :-)
 
Blasto, Thanks. I've also noticed that the brightness setting has an impact with real content on screen. However, I couldn't understand why that should not show on a fully black jpeg image. I don't know if this makes sense but is it possible that the TV has some built in processing to always retain some charge on the phosphors to ensure faster phosphor response (and sacrificing black as a side-effect)? With real content, they could switch off some of the phosphors completely. I read that the VT20 had a different phosphor driving methodology. If it sounds like I've been smoking something, that's not true. :-)

Wow.. So now you are talking in terms of chage supplied to the phospors.. :D Next to follow will be electron movement and subatomic particles.. :clapping:

I am going to sit tight and watch the TV contents instead of the TV itself.. That seems so much wise and my wife does just that and is always happy!!
 
Wow.. So now you are talking in terms of chage supplied to the phospors.. :D Next to follow will be electron movement and subatomic particles.. :clapping:

I am going to sit tight and watch the TV contents instead of the TV itself.. That seems so much wise and my wife does just that and is always happy!!

Perhaps I should stop visiting the forum for a few days and just watch TV. :-)
 
@Satan, I am still not able to use media server..on the verge of leaving this whole idea aside.. can you suggest me what settings you applied in media server?
 
@Reds4Ever/Satan,

Got a conclusion on the -15 brightness issue today.
Nothing has changed in the TV wrt MLL.

I replayed the 'real juice' video from Nat-Geo today with normal room lighting and found blacks lacking at '0' brightness. Paused the scene and reduced the brightness and blacks become pitch black around -15. +12 brightness is very light grey.

Replayed with -15 brightness and the whole scene was just great. Colours also improve a lot. Other scenes had crushed shadow detail however. I have been using -15 today and blacks are really good. If we change to other picture modes, the details are good though.

So, -15 for best blacks and -5 to 0 for best shadow details. Anything between them is a compromise between the two.

So, with real content on the screen, the blacks go deeper than a full black screen. The 'real juice' is a good scene to adjust brightness.

My current settings (post breakin) for HD in moderate room lighting below. Needless to say it maximises on blacks sacrificing shadow details. Watch for an hour or so and let me know what you think. (Note: Not for SD).

Most panasonic owners don't like my settings as I find 'on your face' setting of samsung satisfactory, so take it with a pinch of salt. Dont come to a conclusion without watching for an hour or so as moving away from breakin settings, you will find this setting unusual.

Mode Professional 1
Contrast : 70 (up from 66)
Colour : 50
Brightness : -15 (or -12 according to your liking)
Tint : -1
R gain : 0
G gain : -11
B gain : +4
R cut : 1
G cut : -6
B cut : +5

Gamma : S-Curve (2.2 if you like it)

BTW that scene do NOT have a black background. Its actually GREY in a calibrated display! So unless you crush the blacks, you will obviously see it as grey as original :)
 
BTW that scene do NOT have a black background. Its actually GREY in a calibrated display! So unless you crush the blacks, you will obviously see it as grey as original :)

I see. Thanks.
I did not know this. I was expecting it to be black.
Thats the reason other scenes lose details with this setting probably.
 
I see. Thanks.
I did not know this. I was expecting it to be black.
Thats the reason other scenes lose details with this setting probably.
I thought like you last year after getting C7000 TV and enabling dynamic contrast. I was getting very dark background on these cutscenes. However after applying calibration settings from Internet I understood that it was actually mild grey instead of complete black as Samsung was otherwise producing in Dynamic contrast mode. Coming back to my good old LCD TV and applying some good calibration setting, I see the same grey shade on these cutscenes.
 
Anyone see floating blacks on their vt20 yet?? It's supposed to be inherent on all vt20 models. If yes how disturbing is it in real time? Is it really irritating when it happens in a dark scene.
 
Anyone using PS3 media server on a wired dlna connection with pc? (I am using a crossover Cat6 cable and my pc is a quadcore, powerful enough to do transcoding on the fly without any glitches)
I get a "Cannot read file" error. I guess the file isn't being properly transcoded.
 
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Anyone using PS3 media server on a wired dlna connection with pc? (I am using a crossover Cat6 cable and my pc is a quadcore, powerful enough to do transcoding on the fly without any glitches)
I get a "Cannot read file" error. I guess the file isn't being properly transcoded.

Well If u are not using PS3 to tanscode then u get that error, if u have a ps3 try connecting lan to ps3 that should work...i tried the same connecting directly into Tv, i got the same error, Or u are better off with the different media servers/..
 
Anyone using PS3 media server on a wired dlna connection with pc? (I am using a crossover Cat6 cable and my pc is a quadcore, powerful enough to do transcoding on the fly without any glitches)
I get a "Cannot read file" error. I guess the file isn't being properly transcoded.

All mordern devices come with Auto-MIDX Ethernet Ports, which means it doesn't matter what cable you use (Straight Through / Crossover).

Well If u are not using PS3 to tanscode then u get that error, if u have a ps3 try connecting lan to ps3 that should work...i tried the same connecting directly into Tv, i got the same error, Or u are better off with the different media servers/..

Transcoding does not happen on the PS3!

Your computer and the Media Server transcode the video and audio to a format suitable to the client.

That error occurs sometimes. IT's quite common. Try switching your transcoder from Mencoder to TsMuxer. It should work.

Of course there are some files that just don't play which can be attributed to a fault with the PS3 Media Server.
 
@Reds4Ever/Satan,

Got a conclusion on the -15 brightness issue today.
Nothing has changed in the TV wrt MLL.

I replayed the 'real juice' video from Nat-Geo today with normal room lighting and found blacks lacking at '0' brightness. Paused the scene and reduced the brightness and blacks become pitch black around -15. +12 brightness is very light grey.

Replayed with -15 brightness and the whole scene was just great. Colours also improve a lot. Other scenes had crushed shadow detail however. I have been using -15 today and blacks are really good. If we change to other picture modes, the details are good though.

So, -15 for best blacks and -5 to 0 for best shadow details. Anything between them is a compromise between the two.

So, with real content on the screen, the blacks go deeper than a full black screen. The 'real juice' is a good scene to adjust brightness.

My current settings (post breakin) for HD in moderate room lighting below. Needless to say it maximises on blacks sacrificing shadow details. Watch for an hour or so and let me know what you think. (Note: Not for SD).

Most panasonic owners don't like my settings as I find 'on your face' setting of samsung satisfactory, so take it with a pinch of salt. Dont come to a conclusion without watching for an hour or so as moving away from breakin settings, you will find this setting unusual.

Mode Professional 1
Contrast : 70 (up from 66)
Colour : 50
Brightness : -15 (or -12 according to your liking)
Tint : -1
R gain : 0
G gain : -11
B gain : +4
R cut : 1
G cut : -6
B cut : +5

Gamma : S-Curve (2.2 if you like it)

Hi Blasto, what is the difference you have observed between these settings and D nice settings??(B cut is -3 for D nice and B cut is +5 in yours)?? Any particular reason to go +ve on B cut??
 
Hi Blasto, what is the difference you have observed between these settings and D nice settings??(B cut is -3 for D nice and B cut is +5 in yours)?? Any particular reason to go +ve on B cut??

First of all, you need to increase brightness to -5 as shadow details are crushed with -15.

B cut is for giving a tinge of blue to bright areas. D-nice is using actual tools to measure and do things. I just use the eye. With a -ve b cut, bright blue areas like sky and water looks more greenish to me. I still am using the above settings with brightness -5 and am satisfied for HD channels.
 
First of all, you need to increase brightness to -5 as shadow details are crushed with -15.

B cut is for giving a tinge of blue to bright areas. D-nice is using actual tools to measure and do things. I just use the eye. With a -ve b cut, bright blue areas like sky and water looks more greenish to me. I still am using the above settings with brightness -5 and am satisfied for HD channels.

-15 keeps pictures very dark, -5 to 0 is more apt. just saw thor bluray with these settings with 62 contrast and 42 colour.. Mind boggling:clapping:
 
Hi,

Finally, I booked my VT20 today, which will be delivered tomorrow to my place. Thanks to disneyschumi, who helped me locating a store with stocks and I cud get a decent price too.

Now, I need some help in setting up the TV. Just wanted to check, have the experts been able to figure out should we go for the firmware upgrade or not and any tips and tricks to get the maximum from the TV?
 
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